Hongniu Laser has exported to many overseas countries. It is inevitable to encounter countries where the weather is too hot or too cold. Today, we will talk about how to maintain the laser machine in supercooled areas.
Fiber laser cutting machines are used for a wide range of applications and creations throughout the year and regular maintenance is vital for keeping it in optimal condition. This is even more prominent during the winter months or supercooled areas. In order to avoid downtime and unnecessary losses, be sure to take proper anti-freezing measures. Here’re some tips for maintaining fiber laser cutting machine in winter months or supercooled areas.
Laser Cutting Machine Cold Conditions Problems
As the temperatures drop dramatically during cold conditions, operating fiber laser cutting machine below more prominent 0°C will undoubtedly cause problems. Once the cooling water freezes, its volume will expand, which will cause the laser or the internal pipeline of the water-cooling system to crack or deform. This, in turn, will cause further damage to other core components and significant losses.
Empty the cooling water after use
After every day use, empty the cooling water in the pipes. Use an air pump or compressor to efficiently drain up the water. Also, if necessary, remove the water chiller or pump and put it in a warmer place to prevent the circulation equipment from freezing.
Laser water cooler and water tank main drainage parts: water tank, pipeline, pump head, filter, deionization tank (optional accessory)Disconnect the power to the equipment involved in the drainage.
Water tank drainage: Open the drain valve (or drain plug) at the lower part of the water tank to drain the water from the water tank. If necessary, you can tilt the water cooler to a certain angle to make the drainage cleaner.
Drainage in pipelines and lasers: Unplug the four-way water pipes first, and then use compressed air to blow from the drainage inlets and outlets of the pipelines for 1 minute respectively to force the water stored in the pipelines back to the water tank and drain the water from the water tank’s drain port.
Unscrew the filter element in the chiller and drain the water in the filter element.
Open the water tank cover and observe if there is still water left in the water tank (you can use compressed air to connect the water supply port and blow back again, and force the residual water in the pipeline, laser (tube), and pump to return to the water tank, and then discharge it from the water tank drain port) If available, tilt the chiller slightly to allow the water to run out or dry it with a dry towel.
Drain the pump head: Unscrew the screw under the pump to drain the water in the pump. It is best to blow out the remaining water on the pump head with compressed air, and then tighten the drain screw.
Drainage of filter and deionization tank: Open the drain valve at the bottom of the filter and deionization tank or the plexiglass shell to remove the residual water.
Use ethanol for short-term antifreeze
If there is a power failure and the cooling water cannot be drained, temporary antifreeze is required. You can add ethanol (alcohol) in deionized or purified water. The addition cannot exceed 40% of the volume of the water tank. Paint and rubber parts are corrosive and corrosive to metals, so they cannot be used for a long time. You must drain and clean the cooling pipes with pure water or deionized water within one week. If antifreeze is still required, special antifreeze must be selected.
Name: Antifreeze ethylene glycol (also known as glycol), which can be purchased at local hardware and chemical stores, and also online, but there are restrictions on liquid transportation.
The ratio with deionized water is at least about 30% and preferably 50%, (70% of water, 30% of ethylene glycol)
Be sure to add the ambient temperature below zero degrees (inclusive).
Ethylene glycol is not equal to ethanol (alcohol), please distinguish it.
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